I've mentioned several times before on this blog that I'm a big fan of the writings and recipes of Nigel Slater. While I've enjoyed cooking for as long as I can remember (I even had a toy kitchen in my formative years, subjecting my family to having to pretend to eat and enjoy plates of plastic food from whatever restaurant, cafe or hotel I imagined myself to be proprietor of at the time), it was only when I was into my 20s that I started getting really interested in trying out recipes, collecting cookbooks and reading about food. Nigel Slater's columns in the Observer, with their elegant yet conversational prose, describing simple but satisfying dishes, were a huge influence, and I'm fairly sure his work makes up more of my cookbook collection than any other single writer.
After more than 25 years writing for the same paper, his articles are still very much the backbone of the Guardian and Observer's renowned food content, all of which I follow fairly religiously. It was a great delight therefore to see Nigel featured in an article earlier this year as part of a series by critic Jay Rayner, when lockdown had imposed a hiatus on his usual restaurant column. In each article, he looked at an influential cookbook and its writer, examining the influence they have had on how we cook and eat in the UK today.
Alongside such classics as Claudia Roden's Book of Jewish Food, Fergus Henderson's Nose to Tail Eating and Yotam Ottolenghi's eponymous first book, Jay gave equally high praise to one of Nigel's earliest books, Real Fast Food from 1992. He admired not just the simplicity and unfussiness of the book's recipes, which seem to just work with the minimum of time and effort, but the words too, sharing "the joy of eating and living well" and making you feel as if Nigel is there speaking directly to you. It's a sentiment I share, and while his more recent books are the ones I have tended to turn to of late, this article prompted me to bring down my copy from the shelf and flick through the pages again for inspiration and remind myself of what I'd tried before.